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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.